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Sightseeing at the Lake District

    A gem in perfect setting, this charming lake resort with its graceful willows encircling the emerald mountain lake. During the day, the city with brightly coloured villas, bungalows, ponies, rickshaws and sail boats beckon the visitor to discover the town in a special way. And as the sun sinks behind the mountains, the hill station turns into an enchanting, alluring fairyland. The lake reflecting the row of lights dancing in the water weaves a mysterious fantasy. That is how is Nainital - the lake town.

     Seven hills encircle the Nainital lake which are known as Ayarpata (2,235 metres); Deopata (2,273 metres); Handi Bandi (2,139 metres); Cheena (2,611 metres); Alma (2,270 metres); Laria Kanta (2,481 metres) and Sher-ka-Danda (2,217 metres). Of these, Ayarpata is so called from Ayar tree (Andromeda ovalifolia) and Handi Bandi from the echo (or devil's laughter) which it is said can be heard here. Sher-ka-Danda means the tiger's ridge and Laria Kanta is said to have been named after some forgotten goddess. The Alma ridge has been named after the famous battle of Alma, fought during the Crimean war. The soldiers who fought in this battle were stationed in Nainital during 1857.

    The chain of mountain peaks around the Nainital lake provide excellent scenic view of the downtown and the Himalayas which lie across the mountain ranges one piled after another but the best view of Nainital is from the Cheena peak about which Sir John Strachey wrote in 'Calcutta Review' which holds good even today, "Let us suppose that we have ascended the first range of hills that rise above the plains in Kumaon, to the lofty peak of Cheena which overhangs the lake and station of Nainital. from this point, the elevation of which is about 8,700 feet above sea level, an observer can obtain an admirable idea of the structure of this part of the Himalayas. Over horizontal distance from the foot of the hills is only about five miles. We look down over the beautiful wooded mountains in Gagar range, covered thickly with Oak & Pine, mingled with the gorgeous rhododendron, to the Bhabar forest which lies almost at our feet, 700 feet below and beyond to the terai and the great plain. To the north, we have before us a scene which the painter and the poet can alone describe but which can never pass from the mind of one who once beheld it. A chaotic mass of mountains lies before us, wooded hills and deep ravines, dark blue ranges rising one above another and behind all piled up into the sky, the snow peaks of great Himalayas. He who has seen this view or the still finer ones that are to be obtained from other parts of Central Kumaon, ay feel quite satisfied that he has seen the most sublime and astonishing of all earthly spectacles."

    Nainital is surrounded by a cluster of lakes, of which Bhimtal is most famous. It is over 800 metres in length and 300 metres in breadth. Its water is bluish green and transparent. Fish are available in plenty and can be observed leaping in the air. The lake has an island which adds to the beauty of the lake. At the end of the lake is an old temple which has a wooden Chhatri or canopy built by Kumaoni Raja Baj Bahadur Chand. In close proximity to Bhimtal are Sat-tal and Naukuchiatal. Naukuchiatal is famous because of its nine corners. Himalayan birds, described by the famous ornithologist Salim Ali, can be seen here. Another famous lake is Malwa-ka-Tal which lies 12 kms to the east of Bhimtal and is about 1460 metres by 210 metres. But the gem amongst pearls of lakes remains Nainital.

    Above are some excerpts from the book 'Nainital: The land of Trumpet and Song' by J.M. Clay

Nainital

State: Uttrakhand, Distance: 310 km NE of Delhi,

Journey time: By road 6˝Hrs By rail 7˝Hrs+road 1Hr

Location: Nainital, Capital of India's lake district, is 36 Kms from Kathgodam and 6,538 ft above sea level.

Route: NH24 to Rampur via Hapur, Garhmukteshar, Gajraula, Joya & Moradabad. NH87 to Nainital via Rudrapur, Haldwani, Kathgodam & Jeolikot.

 

 

When to go: All year round except winter and the monsoons. Summer is best.

Getting there: Rail: Nearest Railhead is Kathgodam (36kms,/ 1hr). Ranikhet express, Dep Old Delhi 10:45pm Arr Kathgodam 6:15am. Rs 250 for a drop to Nainital. Ranikhet express Dep Kathgodam 8:45 pm Arr Old Delhi 4:45am. Car: Drive along NH24 to Rampur then NH87 all the way. En Route Halts Giani's Dhaba, Meriton Hotel at Gajraula, Jublee after Moradabad. Bus: Regular services from Anand Vihar Bus Terminal.

 

 

 

Excursions close by & further on

 

    Ropeway to Snow View: A cable car takes you up to this popular viewpoint at 2270 metres. The cable car is open from 10am to 4pm. Its a pleasant walk down. The return ticket gives you only 1 hour at the top and a set time for return. At the top there are paid binoculars set up for a close up view of Nanda Devi. The month of February/March are clear for nice snowcapped views through these binoculars. You can be dressed in Kumaoni dress and have your photo taken, with a spectacular Himalayan backdrop.

 

    Walks: There are several good walks in the area, with views of snowcapped mountains to the north. China Peak also known as Naini Peak is the highest point in the area, 2610 metres and can be reached either from Snow View or from Mallital, 5 kms. Climb up early morning when the views are clearer. A four km walk to the west of the lake brings you to Dorothy's Seat, 2292 metres, where a Mr. Kellet built a seat in memory of his wife, killed in a plane crash. Laria Kanta is at 2480 metres on the opposite side of the lake and Deopatta, 2435 metres, is west of Mallital.

 

    Hanumangarhi (3km): There are good views and spectacular sunsets over the plains from Hanuman Garhi temple, three kms south of Tallital. There is a nice 1 km walk to ARIES from Hanuman Garhi.

 

    Pangot (15km): It is hard to believe that just 15 kms from Nainital is an island of tranquility where you can either lie soaking in the sun or do some vigorous walking in the dense oak and rhododendron forests. You can do all this and more at Pangot, 1828 metres, a great place for birders and trekkers. Pangot is excellent for long walks through the thick oak, pine, bamboo, cedar and rhododendron stands. The walk from the Kilbury Forest rest house to Pangot is very popular. A long trail leading up to Naina Peak offers picture perfect views of Garhwal Himalayas

 

    Jeolikot (18km): This tiny hamlet is the gateway to Kumaon's Lake District, 18 kms short of Nainital and at 1300 metres. Spend languorous summer days and starlit wintry nights in Jeolikot. Join the ranks of mega-meditators - Sri Aurbindo and Swami Vivekananda - who found this tiny hillside hamlet a perfect haven for solitude and healing. If that's not enticing enough, there's the tempting invitation to a delightful little family-run resort. Set in the folds of the lower Kumaon hills, the resort is a vintage English cottage. Location of THE COTTAGE is excellent, with rich Kumaoni carvings on its doors and windows. The Resort's charming interiors and layout allow visitors to enjoy nature both indoors and outdoors.

 

    Naukuchiatal (26km): Cradled by green mountains, this misty blue lake is fed by an underwater spring which keeps its waters high. A single view of all the nine corners of Naukuchiatal is said to bestow nirvana upon the onlooker. So why not get to Lake Naukuchiatal for your sip of nirvana, a luxury taste of tranquility where the prices are modest enough not to disrturb the silence and your peace of mind. One of the Kumaon's grand theatres of nature, Naukuchiatal is where an opera of butterflies, Himalayan birds, animals and flowers play out Four Seasons without any help from Vivaldi. With nature walks and trails, boats and fish to angle into, where do you begin? How about strolling around the periphery of the lake? This leafy 3˝ km nature walk takes you along a secluded path, scented with blossoms and joyous with birdsong.

 

    Sattal (23km): A group of seven interconnected lakes set against a backdrop of oak and pine trees, beyond which tower the Himalayas. A holiday in Sattal is a taste of wildlife and adventure. Trekking through the forests and mountains on your feet, mountain bikes or ropes, this is a vacation about rising to the challenge of the vertical limit. Go rafting or kayaking on the lakes.

 

    Ranikhet (33km): North of Nainital and at an altitude of 1829 metres, this peaceful hill station offers excellent views of the snow capped Himalayas including the Nanda Devi, 7817 metres. It's an important army town and the HQ of the Kumaon ragiment. There are a couple of churches that have been converted into tweed and shawl mills with hand operated looms. There are several good walks to Jhula Devi Temple, 7 km, and the orchards at Chaubatia, 3 km further on, and for a small fee you can tee off on a golf course with a 300 km panoramic view of the Himalaya!

 

    Almora (39km): This picturesque hill station, at an altitude of 1650 metres, is one of the few not created by the British. Some 400 years ago it was the capital of the Chand rajas of Kumaon. Almora is larger than Ranikhet and Kausani, there's an interesting bazaar, excellent views of the mountains and some great walks. The eight km walk up to the Kasar Devi Temple is a good one. This is where Swami Vivekanand came to meditate. You can also visit the tweed mills above the Holiday Home and the town Museum. The clock tower was built in 1842 and carries the motto 'Work as if thou wert to die today'. There's a small Shiva shrine in the room below it.

 

    Katarmal & Jageshwar: There are a number of ancient temple sites in the area. At Katarmal, 17 km from Almora, is a 800 year old Sun Temple. A much larger group is 34 kms away at Jageshwar in an attractive valley full of Deodars. They date back to the 7th century AD. There is a tourist bungalow at Jageshwar.

 

    Kausani (73km): For an even closer view of the Himalaya, Kausani, 53 Kms North of Almora, is the place to head for. At 1890 metres, it's a small peaceful place that is perfect for quiet contemplation. Gandhiji stayed at the Anashakti Ashram in 1929 and was inspired by the superb Himalayan panorama. Hindi poet laureate Sumitra Nandan Pant grew up here. Among the numerous hikes in the area, the 14 km walk to the 12th century temples at Baijnath is definately worth it. Don't follow the road as it's six km further, but ask for the path through the forest.

 

Web-Links
    Here is a comprehensive website detailing every aspect of Nainital for a tourist. The telephone numbers are correct! a rarity. The website has pages on How to reach Nainital, Local Attractions , Excursions, Corbett Park, Accomodation in and around Nainital, History, Heritage, Flora & Fauna & Much more.
Nainital - The Lake District of Uttarakhand

    Although this website has some advertisements, but the written text is very informative, not the standard boilerplate used on every other website. The website also contains nice and old photographs of Nainital. It also lists excursions from Nainital.
Nainital Tourism - welcome to Paradise City

    This website includes history, the modern city, principal institutions, and references. The page also lists some of the important personalities connected with Nainital. A must read.
Nainital